Phoebe Philo

FORMER Chloe designer and the A-list's fashion go-to girl, Phoebe Philo, stepped back in to the design limelight yesterday as she presented her long awaited first collection for Celine - and the queen of frills has toughened up.

"For this first collection I wanted to create a wardrobe, and not get too much into the trends," Philo told WWD of the collection. "I wanted to sort things out. This feels like a good solid start."

Philo showed a collection of utilitarian pieces, with an emphasis on industrial touches like zips and chunky crystals. Menswear fabrications have been the big development - both for the house and for the designer - as Philo searched for textures to convey her new pared down masculine aesthetic. Most came from Italy as she conceded that French fabrics "are more couture, which is lovely until you step outside of evening gowns."

Despite the tougher change of direction Philo has not lost her midas touch for accessories - and presented a shoe and bag collection which will help in no small part towards the Celine reinvention.

PHOEBE PHILO has put the sartorial sparkle into Celine. Born in Paris, the British designer was educated in London and went on to study at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 1996.

• Philo joined the house of Chloe in 1997 as first assistant on its ready-to-wear and moved to Paris.
• In 2001  she was appointed creative director of the label, taking over from Stella McCartney - who had taken on Philo as her design assistant at Chloe. In October of that year, Philo presented her first ready-to-wear collection for the house and in 2002 launched Chloe's accessories line.
• In 2005, Philo was honoured with the British Designer of the Year accolade by the British Fashion Council.
• During her reign at Chloe, the label was transformed into a luxury global brand, winning critical and commercial acclaim for both its ready-to-wear and accessories offerings.
• Philo resigned from Chloe in 2006 and moved back to London. During this time she had her second child.
• After a break from the industry, Philo was appointed creative director at Celine and made board member of Celina SA. Of joining the label, she said at the time: "It will be whatever I make it for the time I'm there."
• She presented her debut pre-spring 2010 collection in June 2009 and her full spring/summer 2010 collection in October of that year.

Philo lives and works in London with her husband, gallery owner Max Wigram, and her two children.