STEP ONE... PATTERN CUTTING..
I started by drafting my pattern, my design has one shoulder so I shaped the neckline going into the one strap. I also extended the darts for a more fitted look.
I cut out my pattern pieces for my bodice and pined them to a stand. I had some issues with the shape of the neckline so i drafted the pattern again.
I changed the shape of the back of my dress a number of times I used the stand to help my do this so I could play around with shape. I then cut out my pattern in calico and made a toile of the bodice. After making the toile I pined it to the stand and used the dress making tape too map out where the neckline, back, and strap would go. I then traced off the final pattern for my bodice.
I made the darts into panels and raised the waistline. I also adjusted the dart on the strap at the front so the fabric would be flat to the body.
STEP THREE... SKIRT PATTERN..
I drafted the skirt block and adjusted the darts so the skirt would have a more fitted look across the waist and hips. The top top skirt pattern ends just below the knees I took 2cm of each side of the skirt pattern so the skirt is tighther around the knee area.
To make the flared part of the skirt I measured the bottom edge of the skirt panels and the made a circle skirt pattern using the measurements from the top panels of the skirt, I then split the full circle into seperate panels.
I cut all my pattern pieces in my fabric and lining and begain to sew my dress together.
For the ruching I used chiffon, I manipulated the fabric and used pins to secure different random points I hand stitched it all in place across the bodice panels.
I sewed all the lining into the bodice which was quite tricky in places because the chiffon made the bodice much more bulky. I attched the shoulder seems and then the skirt pieces together. I then attached the conceled zip and finaly pressed and steamed my dress.
THE FINAL GARMENT......
Sam Wright Photograpy
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